Indian couture is definitely making a mark in the fashion capitals of the world with two designers crossing shores. Ace designer Tarun Tahiliani will soon be opening his long-anticipated couture stores in New York and Dubai to begin with. Manish Malhotra will showcase his designs in New York as part of the NMACC India Weekend at Lincoln Center in September. Both are also amping up their jewellery and accessory lines for the complete ensemble look, a sneak peek of which was revealed at the ongoing Hyundai India Couture Week.
Both resorted to novel approaches to demystify couture and reminded us why we need to relook at our crafts heritage, nurture it and understand ways of contemporising it. In fact, both had a subtle dandyism in their approach. Tahiliani has always been known for his intimate previews. But this time he got in his young design team to take connoisseurs through his thoughtfully crafted collection. The gossamer outfits are lighter than ever, the pastel palette muted, but it is the tonality of the malt brown that’s setting a timeless colour palette for the season. And as a master of drapes, he has experimented with shapes and silhouettes, layers and capes.
In fact, the collection is a refinement of India’s blended cultural history. “We had textiles and drapes. The embroidery came from Central Asia and Persia and tailoring came from Britain,” said Tahiliani, emphasising how it was important to cater to a generation that was used to comfortable sneakers and shoes, accustomed to international brands and their neat fits and would naturally be “stumped” by traditional wear. “At one time people relied on tailors for a fit. Now everybody knows what a good fit is. So we kept rolling like a wheel in our studios, where we sat in on addas with karigars, and tested our fits over the years. We learnt, transmitted and insisted that things are done in a certain way,” said Tahiliani while introducing his collection.
The mostly sheer collection has broken away from the bridal focus to cocktail, party and even corporate dinner outings, with no fuss, clean and liberating lines. And perhaps this collection has been the most delicate in its use of lace, tulle, the shadow work embroidery, the meshed kashir jaal, where the finest threads and embroidery hold up the fabric and Jamaa, dense embroidery seen in the entire body of the garment and fabric. In fact, elements of the 1930s boudoir fashion get reflected in this showcase which was presented as an intimate walkthrough for guests. But what gives the ensemble an elegance is the minimalistic statement jewellery, belts, and bags, which go together for any age and time. There’s a reason why Tahiliani pieces make for the perfect family heirloom. Anybody can carry them.
The new couture collection from Tarun Tahiliani. (Photo: Rinku Ghosh)
Tahiliani’s designers have thoughtfully built in body inclusivity, adding slanted lapels in capes for the heavy-breasted and concealed pleats in jumpsuits as they flare out just that bit to hide the belly fat.
Designer Manish Malhotra focussed more on overturning the premise of couture shows and innovated with a multiplicity of experiences. So there was the exhibit section where he had displayed all his past work adorned by Bollywood actors over the years. Yes, there was Poo’s (played by Kareena Kapoor in Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham) asymmetrical top to the bikini blouse that Priyanka Chopra wore in Dostana. But what stood out were the statement neck piece worn by Aishwarya Rai at this year’s Met Gala and the maximalist fishtail gown, made from vintage Parsi Gara saris, by businesswoman Natasha Poonwalla. The close-up detailing on the Gara gown, as well as Deepika Padukone’s finale gown from the 2022 show celebrating Mijwan weavers, mark a shift in Malhotra’s style to intricacy and pure craftsmanship.
Of course, whether Malhotra’s dugout-style party with DJs, installations, cascading white flowers and food embellished his collection or not is a question on everybody’s minds. The structured gowns and silhouettes with their metallic sheen, particularly the neat and classic simplicity of velvet sherwanis and bandhgalas in deep tones, somehow got overshadowed by the live act of Jonita Gandhi, who belted out hit after hit in a bright sequin gown. One of Malhotra’s own loyal customers at the show wished that the outfits could do the talking more intimately than being overtaken by the live acts and other paraphernalia.
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The Manish Malhotra couture collection
But Malhotra’s coup was in getting 44-year-old Brazilian supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio to open and close his collection. Yes, his Bollywood guests, like Tamannah Bhatia and Fatma Sana Sheikh, were confined to being guest attendees. Ambrosio, who has been a Victoria’s Secret model and been featured by the likes of Ralph Lauren, Christian Dior and Armani, showed how to make the clothes do the talking with a certain cadence in the word, a certain rhythm of movement, twirl and a look. Be it the sari inspired silver gown and blouse held together by a three-stand pallu, or the white pearl encrusted bustier with statement neck pieces, Ambrosio showed that Indian interpretations of couture just needed that right strut and carriage. Malhotra is clearly breaking his own format and refining his craft but wish his collection had a more close-up appeal like his exhibits.
