Pahalgam, May 21: Just a month ago, Pahalgam ñ one of Kashmirís most popular tourist destinations – was alive with the colours of spring and the buzz of visitors.
Nestled in the picturesque Lidder Valley in south Kashmir, the resort town drew tourists from across the country with its breathtaking scenery, snow-capped mountains, blooming gardens, and the roaring Lidder River flowing from Himalayan glaciers and alpine lakes.
Today, a haunting silence has settled over the hill station.
Everything has come to a standstill, said Zahid Ahmad, who runs a zip-line adventure activity in the Baisaran meadows, where a deadly attack on April 22 killed 25 tourists and a local pony operator.
Every day, we used to give 50 to 60 rides to tourists, and each ride fetched Rs 300 ñ thats around Rs 15,000 a day,î Ahmad said. ìAt least 10 people, including instructors and helpers, earned their livelihood from the zip-line activity. But now, everything has halted.î
Other adventure offerings like zorbing, rock climbing, and similar activities in Baisaran and nearby areas have also stopped, severely impacting local livelihoods.
Even the rafting hasnt started this year, Ahmad said.
Just weeks ago, local businesses ñ from hotels and restaurants to street vendors, tourist guides, photographers, cab drivers and pony riders – were thriving, catering to a steady stream of visitors.
Now, though many shops remain open, few customers show up.
A month ago, there was a huge rush of tourists. I had two salesmen, but now both are home, and I hardly get any customers, said Manzoor Ahmad, who sells handicrafts in the main market.
Sabzar Ahmad, a manager at the Paradise Inn Restaurant, said the eatery used to stay packed from morning until late at night.
Most of our staff, including waiters, returned home as there are hardly any customers, he said.
A few meters ahead, a group of taxi drivers stood silently at the main tourist taxi stand ñ their usual banter replaced by uneasy stillness.
Grief clung to their faces, and their conversations were hushed and heavy with sorrow.
Just a month ago, these drivers were busy ferrying tourists to sightseeing spots like Aru Valley, Chandanwari, and Betab Valley – their cabs weaving through scenic routes filled with laughter and excitement. Now, the taxi stand is eerily empty.
I would earn at least Rs 2000 a day ferrying tourists, but today I donít earn at all,î said Nisar Ahmad, 45, a local taxi driver.
The sudden halt in tourism has devastated the livelihoods of hundreds of pony operators as well.
I used to earn at least Rs 1500 a day of which I would pay Rs 1000 to the owner of the pony and keep Rs 500 for myself. Now I donít earn anything, said Ismail, a pony operator.
Abdul Wahid Wani, president of the Pony Operators Association in Pahalgam, said there were about 5000 ponies in the area.
More than 7000 families used to survive by offering pony rides to tourists, but now they are all sitting idle, Wani said.
The pony wallas, who ferried tourists to Baisaran Meadow – a popular 6-km trail from Pahalgams Circuit Road – were also among the first responders during the April 22 attack.
The hotel industry has taken the biggest hit.
Hotels were fully booked, and today they are empty, said Ibrahim Raina, owner of Hotel Brown Palace. With no tourists coming, we were forced to send almost all our staff home. We had 67 staff members, including receptionists, room service personnel, waiters, and cooks. Only two remain now. The rest have been relieved.
Raina said the hotel had bookings lined up until August, but since the attack, cancellations have poured in and no new bookings are being made.
Pahalgam and its surrounding areas have more than 800 hotels, guesthouses, and huts, employing over 7000 people.
According to Raina, most hotel owners have had to scale back operations and lay off their staff due to the lack of tourists.
Even the gardens – Poshwan Park, Lavender Park, Lidder View Park, and Club Park ó once filled with the laughter of children and tourists strolling among blooming flowers, now stand shut and silent.
