No trip to Kerala is complete without sampling one of the state’s most delicious all-day staples. This is particularly true if you’re anywhere in Central Kerala where the most delicious appams (also known as hoppers) are crafted. The perfect appam has a soft centre and a thinner than wafer crust with the perfect-sized tiny holes. This perfect consistency is achieved by a delicate process of pouring the batter into the Appa chatti (or Appam pan) – you need to allow one part of the batter to settle at the bottom while tilting the dish to ensure that the rest of the batter spreads evenly around the inside of the dish.
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While the classic Appam is a popular staple in Kerala, it’s also an integral part of Tamil Nadu cuisine where the dish is believed to have originated. The dish gets a mention in Perumpanarruppatai, a famous collection of poems that can be traced back to the third century AD. The Tamil Nadu version is softer and doesn’t usually feature the crispy textures of its Kerala counterpart. That can be attributed to the deeper dishes that are typically used. It’s in Coimbatore that I tried one of the most scrumptious versions of the Appam in Tamil Nadu.
Tiffen House has been a popular local institution in Coimbatore for a few decades now. This unassuming eatery is tucked away in the busy RS Puram neighbourhood of the city. One of their signature snacks is the Butter Appam. It’s probably where pan pizza meets a classic appam. Crusty, almost crispy outside and soft on the outside. Your dietitian might not approve but you can save this dish for your cheat day. The restaurant serves this dish like a pizza with a touch of drama at the table where they use a small plate to split the appam into tiny quarters that makes it easy to share. The key to this recipe is the white, unsalted butter (see recipe below). The butter appam is served with Tiffen House’s signature pudina (mint) chutney. You can try making the Butter Appam at home or bookmark Tiffen House for your next visit to Coimbatore:
Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan
Butter Appam – Recipe
Ingredients
Raw Rice- 1 cup
Parboiled Rice – 1 cup
Grated Coconut – 1 cup
Thick poha – 1/4 cup
Water – 1 cup
Baking soda -1/4 tbsp
Unsalted butter -3-4 tbsp
Oil/ghee-2 tbsp
Salt as required
Method:
For Appam batter:
- Rinse rice in water a couple of times and soak it along with the poha for 4 to 5 hours.
- Drain all the water and then add the soaked rice to a mixer. Also add the grated coconut, salt with water.
- Grind all the ingredients to a smooth flowing batter.
- Transfer the batter to a bowl. Add the baking soda and stir well. Cover the bowl and set aside to ferment for 1 to 2 hours. The batter will typically double in volume with air bubbles.
For butter Appam:
- Add a cube of unsalted butter as you heat the pan/wok on medium flame.
- Add about a ladle full of Appam batter in the centre and swirl it.
- Set the heat to medium-low. Cover the pan with a lid and cook for 2-3 minutes.
- Add a spoon of butter and then flip the Appam. Cook for another 2-3 minutes.
- Add some ghee on the sides and cook until crisp.
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Photo: Ashwin Rajagopalan
Pudina Chutney – recipe
Ingredients
3/4 cup Mint leaves
1/2 cup Grated Coconut
2-3 Green chilies
1 tbsp roasted Bengal gram
A small piece of tamarind
1/2 tsp turmeric
Salt as required
For tempering:
1 tbsp Oil
1/2 tbsp Mustard seeds
1/2 tbsp Urad dal
Instructions
- Wash the mint leaves, drain the water and keep aside.
- Heat oil in a pan, add the washed mint leaves and saute the leaves in medium flame until it shrinks in volume. Keep aside till it cools completely.
- Add grated coconut, green chilli, fried gram dal, tamarind and salt in a blender with water. Now add the mint leaves and turmeric.
- Blend it to a fine paste and transfer to the serving bowl.
- Add the tempered ingredients and stir well.
- This chutney also tastes delicious with idli or dosa.
About Ashwin RajagopalanI am the proverbial slashie – a content architect, writer, speaker and cultural intelligence coach. School lunch boxes are usually the beginning of our culinary discoveries.That curiosity hasn’t waned. It’s only got stronger as I’ve explored culinary cultures, street food and fine dining restaurants across the world. I’ve discovered cultures and destinations through culinary motifs. I am equally passionate about writing on consumer tech and travel.
